New to forum…21 Sierra, Coolant Control Valve P1098 fixed

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flyfisherholms

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Hello folks,

I successfully repaired my coolant control valve at home, no dealer fees, or WAITING for spare parts required…My 21 Sierra started throwing the P1098 code at 63k miles and blasting fans at 100% power. For a while I could restart the engine and it would go away, eventually that stopped working. I learned it was the coolant control valve that was having problems (24001355) and it is on a 5+ month back order. I decided to try repairing it on my own while I waited for parts…It was a 7 hour job to remove, clean, lubricate the valve and its components. It ended up being one of the motor gear boxes that was all gummed up and causing the issue. It was the one with metal clips not screws. I cleaned the old grease on the worm gears and refreshed with new white lithium grease. I did it all in my The garage without a lift on a jack stand. Hit me up if you want to give it a go and I’ll leave more detailed instructions.
 

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Haven't put my eyes on this part. Would it have been possible to repair on the truck?
 
If you mean fix without pulling the whole valve assembly out, no. The motor box in question rides the top of the valve and would be impossible to get to without removing the whole thing.
 
Thanks for answering.
 
I hope they improve this valve as so many have an issue. I am still waiting for my part to come but if I need to replace it every 3 years or 70k that is BS.
 
asimpson997 said:
I hope they improve this valve as so many have an issue. I am still waiting for my part to come but if I need to replace it every 3 years or 70k that is BS.
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I think they didn’t test their new fancy valve enough before it was released. Way too complicated for what it needs to do.
 
Truly impressive that you were able to do this! I'd love to hear more details, just in case.
 
flyfisherholms said:
Hello folks,

I successfully repaired my coolant control valve at home, no dealer fees, or WAITING for spare parts required…My 21 Sierra started throwing the P1098 code at 63k miles and blasting fans at 100% power. For a while I could restart the engine and it would go away, eventually that stopped working. I learned it was the coolant control valve that was having problems (24001355) and it is on a 5+ month back order. I decided to try repairing it on my own while I waited for parts…It was a 7 hour job to remove, clean, lubricate the valve and its components. It ended up being one of the motor gear boxes that was all gummed up and causing the issue. It was the one with metal clips not screws. I cleaned the old grease on the worm gears and refreshed with new white lithium grease. I did it all in my The garage without a lift on a jack stand. Hit me up if you want to give it a go and I’ll leave more detailed instructions.
Click to expand...
Hello, I have the same issue can I get the detail it took to get to it. I've read removing steering components ?
 
deaner3810 said:
Hello, I have the same issue can I get the detail it took to get to it. I've read removing steering
Click to expand...
First, only get into this if your warranty is expired. Take this stuff off:
Tire, wheel well, steering linkage, air filter box, two frame brackets (to get air box out)
Remove a lower coolant hose to drain most of it…this will be messy. I used a kiddie pool.
Don’t unscrew to hose nipples from the valve instead, remove the hoses from the valve, get a hose clip remover tool because they are very difficult to get off. You will have to remove the far right nipple from the valve to get it out. It’s spring loaded with parts you don’t want to lose so be careful.
There’s 6 screws holding the valve on, you’ll need a long extension and a little magnet.
Make note of the valve rotation position (take a picture)
The valve has a rubber gasket in the back against the engine you don’t want to damage.
Pull the valve out the top, you’ll need to loosen (not remove) a couple brackets against the engine to do this. One is for the dip stick, the other is holding one of the hose supports.
Disassemble and clean the valve. Make note of how everything goes together and its position (pictures would help which I wish I did)
Remove the cover that has clips, disassemble the gearbox (again picture first …wish I did that) Clean out the old dried grease. Re lubricate with a plastic safe lithium grease. I used lubriplate general purpose white lithium grease.
Put the valve back together and very lightly lube the wear components with the grease. (Might not need to do this)
Rotate valve to the original position…reinstall it. Put everything back together (easier said than done)
Follow directions in the owners manual for purging the air from the coolant system.
I’ll try to share the video I took. It’s not edited for brevity.098A6BB6-59C1-4416-91E0-821FF22084E7.png
 
flyfisherholms said:
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Thx for the detail video etc I'm positive this will help people over time. I'm out of warranty and they quoted me 2900 and said 10 to 12 hours labor, I've talked to other shops and they said 4 to 5 actual hours. What's weird googling this part it doesn't seem hard to get, I was seeing 3 to 4 days. Chevrolet told me they could not give a exact date but beyond a month. I'll def give this a go but waiting on other shops quote.
 
flyfisherholms said:
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Do you think using a clear silicone grease would keep the gearbox grease from hardening/gumming up again?

While you were in that deep, did you "service" the other 2 gearboxes?
 
flyfisherholms said:
Hello folks,

I successfully repaired my coolant control valve at home, no dealer fees, or WAITING for spare parts required…My 21 Sierra started throwing the P1098 code at 63k miles and blasting fans at 100% power. For a while I could restart the engine and it would go away, eventually that stopped working. I learned it was the coolant control valve that was having problems (24001355) and it is on a 5+ month back order. I decided to try repairing it on my own while I waited for parts…It was a 7 hour job to remove, clean, lubricate the valve and its components. It ended up being one of the motor gear boxes that was all gummed up and causing the issue. It was the one with metal clips not screws. I cleaned the old grease on the worm gears and refreshed with new white lithium grease. I did it all in my The garage without a lift on a jack stand. Hit me up if you want to give it a go and I’ll leave more detailed instructions.
Click to expand...
Hello, I tried to fixed but probably I reinstalled valves not right. You told you did pictures. If not problem can you text me please to my phone 2679393575, or email me [email protected]
I will be very appreciative
 
flyfisherholms said:
Hello folks,

I successfully repaired my coolant control valve at home, no dealer fees, or WAITING for spare parts required…My 21 Sierra started throwing the P1098 code at 63k miles and blasting fans at 100% power. For a while I could restart the engine and it would go away, eventually that stopped working. I learned it was the coolant control valve that was having problems (24001355) and it is on a 5+ month back order. I decided to try repairing it on my own while I waited for parts…It was a 7 hour job to remove, clean, lubricate the valve and its components. It ended up being one of the motor gear boxes that was all gummed up and causing the issue. It was the one with metal clips not screws. I cleaned the old grease on the worm gears and refreshed with new white lithium grease. I did it all in my The garage without a lift on a jack stand. Hit me up if you want to give it a go and I’ll leave more detailed instructions.
Click to expand...
Hello, if not problem for you,can you send me please pictures when you open all valves?
I forgot to make pictures.
Please, thank you
 
gemarsh said:
Do you think using a clear silicone grease would keep the gearbox grease from hardening/gumming up again?

While you were in that deep, did you "service" the other 2 gearboxes?
Click to expand...
No they looked great
 
Gene said:
Hello, if not problem for you,can you send me please pictures when you open all valves?
I forgot to make pictures.
Please, thank you
Click to expand...
Here’s all I have 101428DF-7193-47AB-A85C-9C275249EE56.jpeg
 

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gemarsh said:
Do you think using a clear silicone grease would keep the gearbox grease from hardening/gumming up again?

While you were in that deep, did you "service" the other 2 gearboxes?
Click to expand...
I would make sure whatever grease you use is okay on all plastics.
 
Gene said:
Hello, I tried to fixed but probably I reinstalled valves not right. You told you did pictures. If not problem can you text me please to my phone 2679393575, or email me [email protected]
I will be very appreciative
Click to expand...
Emailed…I had trouble the first try… main problem I think was large yellow valve seal(below the lock in the picture). The rubber seal got pinched funny when I put in in the first time and I believe was causing motor to think it hit the limit early or something.
 
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